How the Japanese soy sauce shoyu conquered top European kitchens
It is Japan's version of the dark gold: shoyu. Over the past twenty years, soy sauce has undergone a true revolution. Twenty years ago, it was stashed at the back of the cupboard by many chefs. Today, it is used in professional kitchens everywhere to add depth of flavour to dressings and sauces. Discover all about this Japanese seasoning.
Gastronomic pioneers of shoyu
Shoyu might be the most important seasoning of all in Japanese cuisine. Contrary to the Indonesian variant ketjap - which managed to conquer Dutch hearts much earlier - Japanese soy sauce has an infinitely more complex flavour profile due to its longer ageing process. Shoyu is a variant based on soy beans, combined with roasted grains, salt and water, which must be fermented for a legally specified length of time.
Japanese soy sauce first began to receive gastronomical attention circa 25 years ago. Pioneers such as Wulf Engel, Jon Sistermans, Hans Snijders, Michel Hanssen, André van Doorn and Paul Fagel were the first top chefs to use shoyu in the preparation of their soups and sauces. The fermentation process creates a distinct style and richness in the sauces, without compromising the classical flavours and preparations.
Seasoning with wonderful depth
All chefs know how much salt to add to a dish to create the flavour they want. When using shoyu, the dosage is even more important. The right amount adds a certain roundness and a wonderful depth to your dishes. The fermentation and six-month ageing process create a kind of tannin and depth. The amino acids make shoyu a unique addition to your dish.
A shoyu for every dish
The Japanese use very precise preparation, balance and dosage. It is all about respect, tradition and knowledge of ingredients. That also explains the place and function of shoyu.
When you go out to eat in Japan, you will see that every type of sushi or sashimi has its own shoyu. Every preparation and every texture calls for its own distinct shoyu. Japanese people use shoyu in various meals throughout the day and are therefore intimately familiar with its uses. It is consumed in different ways at different times. For example, as a dip with sashimi, as an seasoning with rice or as a derivative in a teriyaki or yakitori dish. Soy sauce is the next step on the quest for depth. That goes for more than just Japanese or other oriental dishes. In an almost imperceptible way, it can elevate the flavour of your jus de veau or give your vinaigrette the touch of savouriness it needs.
Shoyu in European cupboards
It took some time for shoyu to be accepted in Europe. We are seeing a gradual growth. Today, shoyu has earned its place in the cupboard next to the salt and pepper. Here at Yama, we couldn't be more proud of that. The turnaround happened during the era of nouvelle cuisine with Paul Bocuse. He travelled the world and was the one to introduce shoyu in Europe. As travel became easier, people's culinary borders began to fade away. This led to a growing interest in sushi. In 1996, the Japanese producer Kikkoman reached out to us to build a plant in Europe to serve the local market. A location in the Netherlands was ultimately chosen, from which we served the European gastronomy and consumer markets. Yama had the honour to not only handle delivery, but also explain the use of shoyu to ensure the product has the future it deserves. Successfully so, because shoyu has become a staple in European kitchens in the last five years. It is now used as readily as salt, pepper and olive oil.”
Discover how Dutch top chefs use shoyu in their kitchen. Marleen Brouwer, Lars van Gaalen, Dennis Kuipers, Roger Rassen, Jarno Eggen and Peter Gast express their appreciation.
